Films about cooking aren’t usually about cooking. That just serves as the framework to tell a story. Food may serve as a metaphor of love or even grace. In Trân Ang Hùng’s The Taste of Things, cooking is not just coincidental to the film, it is central to everything—and still serves to shed light on love and grace. The Taste of Things is France’s submission for Best International Feature consideration.
Set in 1889 in rural France, we meet gourmand Dodin Bouffant (Benoît Magamel) and his personal chef Eugénie (Juliette Binoche). Dodin scoffs at being referred to as “The Napoleon of culinary arts”, but is very much a master at his craft. Together Dodin and Eugénie put together marvelous meals for Dodin’s small group of fellow foodies.
Dodin and Eugénie share a passion for the food they make. They also share a passion for each other. For over twenty years they have been part-time lovers, although Eugénie refuses to marry him, wanting a sense of freedom. But although we see the sexual chemistry between them, their intimacy is most evident when they are dealing with food.
A good part of the film is watching them cooking. There is a sensuousness to all of the cooking and eating. Watching the film on a big screen enveloped me in that kitchen. The wonderful cinematography and sounds created a sense of being there—the only thing missing was the aroma. Also, of course we don’t get to taste the marvelous creations. But the film provides a surrogate in the character of Pauline (Bonnie Chagneau-Ravoir), a young girl with an excellent palate who Eugénie would like to bring in as an apprentice. For Pauline all this food is new and exciting. We see the wonder in her expressive eyes and feel as though we experience her awe.
You may have noticed I’ve said little about plot. There is one, but it is not the driving force of the film. At the screening I attended at AFIFest, the programmer described the film as “slow cinema meets slow food”. I found that to be an excellent parallel. Really good cooking uses time as a way of letting the flavors open and blend. So too does the slow pacing of the storytelling in this film. As this story simmers, we may note some of the many ingredients as they come together.
The French title of the film is La Passion de Dodin Bouffant. I think that is a much better choice than the one being used for English speaking audiences. Because this truly is a film about passion. Not just Dodin’s passion for food, but also his deep love for Eugénie. In time, those passions merge; when Eugénie is taken ill, Dodin cooks for and serves her a special meal.
Food certainly can have a spiritual quality. Consider the Seder meal in Judaism, the Eucharist in Christianity or iftar in Islam. In the act of preparing, serving, and eating we may reflect on family or God’s grace or the blessings of pleasure. The Taste of Things is surely an experience that will remind us to enjoy not only our food, but all the good things that it represents.
Photos courtesy of Gaumont.
